KMID : 0604520070330030189
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Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea 2007 Volume.33 No. 3 p.189 ~ p.196
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Preparation of Oligo Hyaluronic Acid by Hydrolysis and Its Application as a Cosmetic Ingredient
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Kim Kyoung-Tae
Kim Young-Heui Kim Jin-Guk Han Chang-Sung Park Sun-Hee Lee Bang-Yong Kim Ki-Ho
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Abstract
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In order to investigate the potential of very low molecular weight hyaluronic acid(oligo HA) as a cosmetic ingredient, we first measured its cytotoxicity in fibroblast, keratinocyte, and SIRC cell lines. For efficacy test, its moisturizing effect and penetration rate were evaluated in an artificial skin system and Caco-2 cells. Oligo HA did not show any cytotoxicity at a concentration of 300 in fibroblasts and 1,000 in keratinocytes but it showed weak proliferation. In vitro ocular test, oligo HA showed negligible cytotoxicity at the maximum concentrations used(2,000 ) in SIRC cells. In the test of the single and repeated cutaneous applications, oligo HA under occlusive patch did not provoke any cumulative irritation and sensitization. Oligo HA at a concentration of 0.01 % exhibited a more potent moisturizing effect than hyaluronic acid at a concentration of 0.01 %. In the permeability test using artificial skin and Caco-2 cell lines, hyaluronic acid(M.W. ) was hardly observed in the down medium of the inserts. On the other hand, oligo HA(M.W. 5,000) was detected in the down medium up to 16.0 % at 6 h in Caco-2 cell culture and up to 90 % at 6 h in an artificial skin system. These results suggest that oligo HA could be useful as an active ingredient for cosmetics.
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KEYWORD
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hyaluronic acid, oligo HA, ion-exchange resin, moisturizing effect, penetration
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